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Ontario Parks Bans Climbing At Devil's Glen

On the eve of climbing's debut at the Tokyo Olympics, Ontario Parks has banned climbing at Devil's Glen.
  •  Ontario Parks Bans Climbing At Devil's Glen

    On the eve of climbing's debut at the Tokyo Olympics, Ontario Parks has banned climbing at Devil's Glen.

This unprecedented closure (impacting all the climbing right of the Nutcracker area) has shocked the Ontario climbing community as access to Devil's Glen was widely considered stable and secure.

"No one from Ontario Parks reached out to the OAC to discuss any concerns about Devil' Glen," recounts Mike Penney, the current Co-Chair of the Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC). "What's even more disturbing is that this policy seems to have been implemented without any outside consultation."

"The OAC is not prepared to accept the closure of any climbing at Devil's Glen," said Kacy Wilson, Director of the OAC. "We are currently attempting to get an official statement from Ontario Parks so that we can respond accordingly."

There is speculation that the closure is a result of repeated complaints by a local homeowner/business regarding climbing in the area.

At the moment, the OAC is urging climbers to behave responsibly when visiting Devil's Glen and, if they encounter park officials, to get their contact information and provide them with the OAC's email address if they wish to discuss the situation further. If climbers are threatened with a ticket, the OAC suggests that they politely ask the officials to clarify what offence is being committed and the amount of the fine. Climbers should then submit this information to the OAC via email at info@ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca.

Devil's Glen is one of Ontario's most popular climbing areas and has a documented history of climbing going back to the early 1980's.

More details on this story as the situation develops.
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Gus Alexandropoulos is a freelance writer who has been involved in the outdoor industry for over 25 years. During his career he has been the editor at Canada’s national climbing magazine, as well as the gear editor for a national cycling magazine, triathlon magazine and running magazine. His work has been published in Canada’s national newspaper, The Globe and Mail, and he has been a guest on television and radio broadcasts. His passion for climbing began in Ontario in the mid 80s and he continues to travel extensively in search of crisp conditions and steep rock.