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Lion’s Head Controversy Continues

Climbers are reporting that the fixed lines protecting the Stinger Gulley descent have been removed. The Stinger Gulley is the only easy descent to the base of Lion’s Head and involves some tricky easy fifth class climbing.
  •  Lion’s Head Controversy Continues

    Climbing at Lion's Head. Photo: Mike Penny

The removal of the fixed ropes comes weeks after an unknown individual stripped the hangers off of several moderate routes at the Latvian Ledge area. The selective hanger removal (only easy routes were stripped) had some climbers speculating that it was done to prevent new climbers from frequenting the area. The removal of the fixed ropes that are primarily used by climbers accessing the moderate routes at that section of the cliff has reignited claims that someone is attempting to prevent new climbers from visiting the area.

Supporters of restricting the number of climbers visiting Lion’s Head point out that the area has numerous complex access issues. While most climbers agree that access to Lion’s Head is tenuous, they disagree with the unilateral actions being taken to prevent newer climbers from visiting the cliff.
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Gus Alexandropoulos is a freelance writer who has been involved in the outdoor industry for over 25 years. During his career he has been the editor at Canada’s national climbing magazine, as well as the gear editor for a national cycling magazine, triathlon magazine and running magazine. His work has been published in Canada’s national newspaper, The Globe and Mail, and he has been a guest on television and radio broadcasts. His passion for climbing began in Ontario in the mid 80s and he continues to travel extensively in search of crisp conditions and steep rock.