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Ontario Climbing
Ontario Climbing

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Classic Ontario Trad Climb Bolted

  • Alan’s Layback 5.7, at Kelso Conservation Area in Milton, has recently been bolted.

    Alan’s Layback 5.7, at Kelso Conservation Area in Milton, has recently been bolted.

The classic moderate trad route, Alan’s Layback 5.7, at Kelso Conservation Area in Milton, has recently been bolted by an unknown individual(s).  This action has sparked near-universal outrage from the Ontario climbing community, with many climbers openly calling for the swift removal of the new bolts.
Alan’s Layback 5.7 was originally climbed by Alan Hughes sometime between the 1950s and 1960s.
  • Alan’s Layback 5.7, at Kelso Conservation Area in Milton, has recently been bolted.

    Alan’s Layback 5.7, at Kelso Conservation Area in Milton, has recently been bolted.

The retro-bolting has been reported to Conservation Halton, who manage the area, as well as the Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC), the climbers’ access group for the region. In a recent social media post, the OAC has stated that they will be working with Conservation Halton to address the situation and will issue a more formal statement early this week.
  • Alan’s Layback 5.7, at Kelso Conservation Area in Milton, has recently been bolted.

    Alan’s Layback 5.7, at Kelso Conservation Area in Milton, has recently been bolted.

According to the local guidebook, Ontario Climbing Vol 1: The Southern Escarpment, Alan’s Layback 5.7 was originally climbed by Alan Hughes sometime between the 1950s and 1960s. The line climbs a 15m flake on surprisingly good rock and is protected with solid, larger gear. The route’s popularity has unfortunately resulted in the rock becoming highly polished, making it feel harder for less experienced climbers.  

More details as they become available.
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Gus Alexandropoulos is a freelance writer who has been involved in the outdoor industry for over 35 years. During his career he has been the editor at Canada’s national climbing magazine, as well as the gear editor for a national cycling magazine, triathlon magazine and running magazine. His work has been published in Canada’s national newspaper, The Globe and Mail, and he has been a guest on television and radio broadcasts. His passion for climbing began in Ontario in the mid-80s and he continues to travel extensively in search of crisp conditions and steep rock.