The Turtle – Ontario's New Moderate Sport Crag
Updated Oct 16, 2021: Turtle Crag is now officially open for climbing once again! However, there are some changes to access at this crag. Reservations are now MANDATORY for climbing at the Turtle.
There are 12 passes available each day, in order to limit the number of people at the crag. If noise and litter become a problem, or climbers are found to be present in excess of the reservation limits, access will again be at risk. Access to this cliff will be compromised if climbers ignore these policies. Don’t be the person responsible for getting this crag closed again.
Reservations are available here:
https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/permits/turtle
There are 12 passes available each day, in order to limit the number of people at the crag. If noise and litter become a problem, or climbers are found to be present in excess of the reservation limits, access will again be at risk. Access to this cliff will be compromised if climbers ignore these policies. Don’t be the person responsible for getting this crag closed again.
Reservations are available here:
https://www.ontarioallianceofclimbers.ca/permits/turtle
Updated Oct 1, 2018: The Turtle is closed due to excessive noise. The cliff is on private land and the owner has been incredibly generous by allowing folks to literally climb in his backyard. Unfortunately, the noise levels at the cliff have reached the point where the landowner is no longer comfortable with climbers visiting the cliff. We spent a lot of personal time and money developing the crag and it was an interesting experiment in terms of climbing access on private property. I genuinely wish that things would have worked out differently. We are currently working with the Ontario Access Coalition to address the landowner's legitimate concerns.
Discovered and developed by Gus Alexandropoulos, Gerry Banning, Mike Sheehan, Dave Smart and Reg Smart in the spring of 2017, The Turtle offers a substantial amount of safely bolted moderate sport climbing.
Ontario Climbing: Vol 1.2 The Turtle
The crag has routes ranging from steep powerful pulling to more conventional technical pocket and small-edge climbing. The Turtle is unique because while the base is on private property, the landowner is supportive of climbing at the crag.
Our continued access to this crag is dependent on climbers exhibiting exceptional behaviour when visiting the area.
Our continued access to this crag is dependent on climbers exhibiting exceptional behaviour when visiting the area.
Ontario Climbing: Vol 1.2 The Turtle
The base of The Turtle is on private property and the landowner resides approximately 100m downhill from the cliff. Our continued access to this crag is dependent on climbers being on their best behaviour when visiting this area.
Please refrain from yelling, dropping F-bombs or taking a dump in the forest below the cliff (would you like climbers taking a poop in your backyard?). Also, leave the hammocks, boom boxes, bongs and alcohol at home. Dogs must be on leash at all times. If Fido is prone to barking, consider going to another cliff. If the cliff is busy, please go to another area that can handle greater climbing traffic (Mount Nemo and Rattlesnake Point). The Turtle is also not suitable for large groups (that is, more than four people). To prevent erosion, climbers must stay on the main path. This is particularly important in the terraced corner area. Helmets are strongly recommended. Please bring a stick-clip and use it for every route to help prevent unnecessary injuries. While top-roping is acceptable (set up on lead), please refrain from monopolizing routes that other climbers would like to lead. Further route development is not allowed in this area. Finally, these rules are not negotiable.
Access to this cliff will be compromised if climbers ignore these policies. Don’t be the person responsible for getting this crag closed.
Please refrain from yelling, dropping F-bombs or taking a dump in the forest below the cliff (would you like climbers taking a poop in your backyard?). Also, leave the hammocks, boom boxes, bongs and alcohol at home. Dogs must be on leash at all times. If Fido is prone to barking, consider going to another cliff. If the cliff is busy, please go to another area that can handle greater climbing traffic (Mount Nemo and Rattlesnake Point). The Turtle is also not suitable for large groups (that is, more than four people). To prevent erosion, climbers must stay on the main path. This is particularly important in the terraced corner area. Helmets are strongly recommended. Please bring a stick-clip and use it for every route to help prevent unnecessary injuries. While top-roping is acceptable (set up on lead), please refrain from monopolizing routes that other climbers would like to lead. Further route development is not allowed in this area. Finally, these rules are not negotiable.
Access to this cliff will be compromised if climbers ignore these policies. Don’t be the person responsible for getting this crag closed.
8 Tips To Ensure The Turtle Stays Open
The guide for The Turtle is now available as a digital guidebook in the recently updated Rakkup guide to Mount Nemo. Rakkup also offers numerous other Ontario Climbing guidebooks. Climbers looking for a hard copy guide to The Turtle can download a donationware saddle-stitch format booklet.
