Ontario Climbing Uniting Canada's Largest Climbing Community

The Turtle – Ontario's New Moderate Sport Crag

Discovered and developed by Gus Alexandropoulos, Gerry Banning, Mike Sheehan, Dave Smart and Reg Smart in the spring of 2017, The Turtle offers a substantial amount of safely bolted moderate sport climbing.
Ontario Climbing: Vol 1.2 The Turtle

Ontario Climbing: Vol 1.2 The Turtle

The crag has routes ranging from steep powerful pulling to more conventional technical pocket and small-edge climbing. The Turtle is unique because while the base is on private property, the landowner is supportive of climbing at the crag.

Our continued access to this crag is dependent on climbers exhibiting exceptional behaviour when visiting the area.
Ontario Climbing: Vol 1.2 The Turtle

Ontario Climbing: Vol 1.2 The Turtle

The base of The Turtle is on private property and the landowner resides approximately 100m downhill from the cliff. Our continued access to this crag is dependent on climbers being on their best behaviour when visiting this area.

Please refrain from yelling, dropping F-bombs or taking a dump in the forest below the cliff (would you like climbers taking a poop in your backyard?). Also, leave the hammocks, boom boxes, bongs and alcohol at home. Dogs must be on leash at all times. If Fido is prone to barking, consider going to another cliff. If the cliff is busy, please go to another area that can handle greater climbing traffic (Mount Nemo and Rattlesnake Point). The Turtle is also not suitable for large groups (that is, more than four people). To prevent erosion, climbers must stay on the main path. This is particularly important in the terraced corner area. Helmets are strongly recommended. Please bring a stick-clip and use it for every route to help prevent unnecessary injuries. While top-roping is acceptable (set up on lead), please refrain from monopolizing routes that other climbers would like to lead. Further route development is not allowed in this area. Finally, these rules are not negotiable.

Access to this cliff will be compromised if climbers ignore these policies. Don’t be the person responsible for getting this crag closed.
8 Tips To Ensure The Turtle Stays Open

8 Tips To Ensure The Turtle Stays Open

The guide for The Turtle is now available as a digital guidebook in the recently updated Rakkup guide to Mount Nemo. Rakkup also offers numerous other Ontario Climbing guidebooks. Climbers looking for a hard copy guide to The Turtle can download a donationware saddle-stitch format booklet.
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is a freelance writer who has been involved in the outdoor industry for over 25 years. During his career he has been the editor at Canada’s national climbing magazine, as well as the gear editor for a national cycling magazine, triathlon magazine and running magazine. His work has been published in Canada’s national newspaper, The Globe and Mail, and he has been a guest on television and radio broadcasts. His passion for climbing began in Ontario in the mid 80s and he continues to travel extensively in search of crisp conditions and steep rock.