New Ontario Test Piece - Bromance 5.14b/c
Southern Ontario local Joe Skopec has just established one of the hardest routes in the province, Bromance 5.14b/c.
Joe Skopec on Bromance 5.14b/c
Skopec originally bolted the line in March 2014, but almost regretted his actions because the crux-sequence holds kept breaking while he was working the route.
“I would spend two hours trying to figure out beta and every time I would unlock the crux, a hold would break. This happened at least three or four times before all the choss was gone - it was pretty frustrating,” say Skopec.
“I would spend two hours trying to figure out beta and every time I would unlock the crux, a hold would break. This happened at least three or four times before all the choss was gone - it was pretty frustrating,” say Skopec.
Joe Skopec on Bromance 5.14b/c
The 65-foot long route opens with a technical crimpy start that leads to huge thuggish throws. From here, there's a shoulder wrenching crux move from a bad sloper followed by more big moves on better holds.
“There’s a shake at the second bolt, but from there you’re pretty much racing to the anchors,” says Skopec.
Skopec bagged the route on November 3, 2014 and credits some of his success to a unique series of circumstances:
“Yesterday I went out with my buddy Tyler, who bought out a secret weapon – the Rosary. I’ve only kissed it once and I sent my old project Nostalgia 5.13d on the next attempt. Now I'm not a religious person, so I refused to kiss it on my first attempt on this new route and I failed miserably. On my next attempt, I kissed the Rosary and sent the project! I still have a hard time believing in this lucky charm, but I must say this Rosary is two-for-two!”
“There’s a shake at the second bolt, but from there you’re pretty much racing to the anchors,” says Skopec.
Skopec bagged the route on November 3, 2014 and credits some of his success to a unique series of circumstances:
“Yesterday I went out with my buddy Tyler, who bought out a secret weapon – the Rosary. I’ve only kissed it once and I sent my old project Nostalgia 5.13d on the next attempt. Now I'm not a religious person, so I refused to kiss it on my first attempt on this new route and I failed miserably. On my next attempt, I kissed the Rosary and sent the project! I still have a hard time believing in this lucky charm, but I must say this Rosary is two-for-two!”
Joe Skopec on Bromance 5.14b/c
Skopec is unsure about the grade, but feels this route is more difficult than his previous route Déjà Vu 5.14a.
As for the name, Skopec chose Bromance to highlight his love of projecting with his good friend TVR and all the time shared with his climbing partners.
“We had a bit of a Bromance after my send,” says Skopec jokingly.
Read more about this route at the ontariocliming.com forum.
As for the name, Skopec chose Bromance to highlight his love of projecting with his good friend TVR and all the time shared with his climbing partners.
“We had a bit of a Bromance after my send,” says Skopec jokingly.
Read more about this route at the ontariocliming.com forum.
