Gear Of The Year 2009 - Part 1
Scarpa Booster
With its highly tensioned, cambered and curved construction, the Booster is not ideal for running laps on easy routes - the fit is just too powerful. But when the rock angle increases and the holds shrink, this shoe suddenly makes sense. The Booster’s sensitivity and edge-holding control are unparalleled allowing climbers unmatched precision and confidence on difficult routes. Throw in top-notch Italian construction and innovative performance-boosting X-tension rands, and it’s clear that the Booster is an excellent choice for difficult limestone climbing. Highly recommended and mandatory equipment for difficult Ontario climbs.
With its highly tensioned, cambered and curved construction, the Booster is not ideal for running laps on easy routes - the fit is just too powerful. But when the rock angle increases and the holds shrink, this shoe suddenly makes sense. The Booster’s sensitivity and edge-holding control are unparalleled allowing climbers unmatched precision and confidence on difficult routes. Throw in top-notch Italian construction and innovative performance-boosting X-tension rands, and it’s clear that the Booster is an excellent choice for difficult limestone climbing. Highly recommended and mandatory equipment for difficult Ontario climbs.
Edelrid Loopo
Many harnesses proclaim their low weight but what they regularly forget to mention is that these weight savings come at the expense of comfort and breathability. After all, what good is a light harness if it feels likes a garrotte around the waist and legs and leaves a sweaty-rash not seen since that last trip to the back room with a Davie St hooker? Thankfully, the Loopo’s innovative construction merges what were previously incompatible qualities and delivers low weight, excellent padding and true ventilation without any uncomfortable and nasty skin-scratching ramifications. At 190g the Loopo is the lightest cragging harness on the market but unlike similar featherweights, it’s wide waist belt and leg loops are comfortable enough for extended route-working sessions. Carefully positioned perforations also add to the Loopo’s versatility by venting perspiration and minimizing uncomfortable harness chafe. Gear racking duties are easily addressed with two full-size, functionally-positioned loops and the addition of optional gear loops. But ultimately it’s the Loopo’s buckleless construction that is its most eye-catching feature. The exclusion of a traditional closure reduces weight and eliminates the risk of forgetting to double-back. With the Loopo, the tie-in point creates the closure - don’t blow the tie-in and there is no problem. This multi-functional tie-in point also creates a lower, more stable belay position allowing for more efficient rope-feeding during desperate clips. The lack of a belay loop might limit the harness’s versatility to single pitch routes but other than this minor criticism, this a great harness. Find it and buy it - nuff said.
Many harnesses proclaim their low weight but what they regularly forget to mention is that these weight savings come at the expense of comfort and breathability. After all, what good is a light harness if it feels likes a garrotte around the waist and legs and leaves a sweaty-rash not seen since that last trip to the back room with a Davie St hooker? Thankfully, the Loopo’s innovative construction merges what were previously incompatible qualities and delivers low weight, excellent padding and true ventilation without any uncomfortable and nasty skin-scratching ramifications. At 190g the Loopo is the lightest cragging harness on the market but unlike similar featherweights, it’s wide waist belt and leg loops are comfortable enough for extended route-working sessions. Carefully positioned perforations also add to the Loopo’s versatility by venting perspiration and minimizing uncomfortable harness chafe. Gear racking duties are easily addressed with two full-size, functionally-positioned loops and the addition of optional gear loops. But ultimately it’s the Loopo’s buckleless construction that is its most eye-catching feature. The exclusion of a traditional closure reduces weight and eliminates the risk of forgetting to double-back. With the Loopo, the tie-in point creates the closure - don’t blow the tie-in and there is no problem. This multi-functional tie-in point also creates a lower, more stable belay position allowing for more efficient rope-feeding during desperate clips. The lack of a belay loop might limit the harness’s versatility to single pitch routes but other than this minor criticism, this a great harness. Find it and buy it - nuff said.
Boreal Flyers
Robustly built and sporting an aggressive and sticky Vibram outsole, the Flyers delivers slip-proof control on rocky approaches, muddy trails and easy rock climbs. While some shoes might perform better on pure rock-slab approaches, it’s the Flyers' versatility combined with its excellent construction that makes this a stand-out approach shoe. This is a top choice for anyone that has more than a 10 minute walk to the cliff and an outstanding option for any mixed-trail conditions.
Robustly built and sporting an aggressive and sticky Vibram outsole, the Flyers delivers slip-proof control on rocky approaches, muddy trails and easy rock climbs. While some shoes might perform better on pure rock-slab approaches, it’s the Flyers' versatility combined with its excellent construction that makes this a stand-out approach shoe. This is a top choice for anyone that has more than a 10 minute walk to the cliff and an outstanding option for any mixed-trail conditions.
Scarpa Force
Building high-end, no-compromise performance climbing shoes is easy; start with an aggressive cambered last, add powerful tensioning and finish with a soft sensitive midsole. Unfortunately the majority of climbers spend most of their time enjoying themselves on classic 5.10s and will never need this specialized performance. What they require instead is a shoe that fits snugly but comfortably, edges precisely while retaining sensitivity and can effortlessly transition between steep, thuggish jug-hauls and low-angle delicate face routes - in other words, the Scarpa Force. This consummate all-rounder easily handles any route thrown its way including polished sport climbs or desperate trad testpieces. An exceptionally versatile shoe easily capable of climbing into the 5.12 grade. Highly recommended.
Building high-end, no-compromise performance climbing shoes is easy; start with an aggressive cambered last, add powerful tensioning and finish with a soft sensitive midsole. Unfortunately the majority of climbers spend most of their time enjoying themselves on classic 5.10s and will never need this specialized performance. What they require instead is a shoe that fits snugly but comfortably, edges precisely while retaining sensitivity and can effortlessly transition between steep, thuggish jug-hauls and low-angle delicate face routes - in other words, the Scarpa Force. This consummate all-rounder easily handles any route thrown its way including polished sport climbs or desperate trad testpieces. An exceptionally versatile shoe easily capable of climbing into the 5.12 grade. Highly recommended.
Five Ten Team 5.10
The demise of the V10 left many elite grip-squeezers including Dave Graham lamenting its passing. Thankfully Five Ten listened to these climbers and introduced the new Team 5.10. Powerfully cambered and tensioned the Team 5.10 is not ideal for moderate routes or off-angle climbing. Only when the terrain becomes steeper do these shoes prove their value. The power on small pockets and incut edges is impressive and climbers spending serious time on cave-like bouldering or steeper technical sport routes should not hesitate in buying a pair. A specialized but worthy addition to the shoe-quiver.
The demise of the V10 left many elite grip-squeezers including Dave Graham lamenting its passing. Thankfully Five Ten listened to these climbers and introduced the new Team 5.10. Powerfully cambered and tensioned the Team 5.10 is not ideal for moderate routes or off-angle climbing. Only when the terrain becomes steeper do these shoes prove their value. The power on small pockets and incut edges is impressive and climbers spending serious time on cave-like bouldering or steeper technical sport routes should not hesitate in buying a pair. A specialized but worthy addition to the shoe-quiver.
