True North Climbing
With its scheduled opening in late March 2010, True North Climbing will become Toronto’s newest climbing gym. Housed in an old airplane hangar with a ceiling height up to 36’, this modern and professionally built facility is an impressive and highly anticipated addition to the local indoor scene. We recently caught up with the owner John Gross and discussed his involvement in climbing, his decision to open a climbing a gym and what True North Climbing will offer Ontario climbers.
How did you get involved in climbing?
I’ve been climbing for a little over 6 years, almost entirely indoors. I was at Horseshoe Valley for a cross-country skiing vacation with my kids in January 2004 and because there was no snow, we went to the Off The Wall climbing gym in Barrie. I was immediately hooked and when I got back to Toronto I started recruiting friends at work to go climbing. I eventually joined the Toronto Climbing Academy which was close to where I worked.
I’ve been climbing for a little over 6 years, almost entirely indoors. I was at Horseshoe Valley for a cross-country skiing vacation with my kids in January 2004 and because there was no snow, we went to the Off The Wall climbing gym in Barrie. I was immediately hooked and when I got back to Toronto I started recruiting friends at work to go climbing. I eventually joined the Toronto Climbing Academy which was close to where I worked.
Why did you decide to open a new climbing gym?
After 25 years in the software business I was ready for something different. I’ve been thinking about doing this for about the last four years by either becoming a partner in an existing gym or starting a new one. I spent four months last year researching and networking in the climbing community and after attending the Climbing Wall Association Summit conference in Boulder last April, I decided that I was ready to do this.
After 25 years in the software business I was ready for something different. I’ve been thinking about doing this for about the last four years by either becoming a partner in an existing gym or starting a new one. I spent four months last year researching and networking in the climbing community and after attending the Climbing Wall Association Summit conference in Boulder last April, I decided that I was ready to do this.
What do you think True North Climbing will offer that’s different from other climbing gyms in Toronto?
The building is pretty cool. It’s an old airplane hangar with multiple ceiling heights (up to 36’) and windows all along the high clerestory. The windows bring in natural light from above and provide good views of the Toronto skyline from some of the taller climbs.
Other distinguishing features include the free-standing boulder, the huge top-out bouldering area, two cracks (36’ finger crack and 16’ hand crack), the chimney with a flake/tufa feature running up one edge, a sizeable area of slab wall and the stalactite suspended from the high ceiling at 36’ that stops 2 ½ feet above the padded floor. Oh, and we’re setting up a couple of slacklines as well!
We are also installing lead anchors on almost every section of roped wall (the only exception is the slab section), so we’ll have more leadable terrain than most gyms. We’ve already ordered 320 quickdraws.
We have invested in a seamless modular padding system from Asana for the advanced bouldering area. The entire fall zone in that area will have a foot of padding. And because we’re avoiding the use of drag mats, we think we can reduce injuries that result from falling on pad edges or when someone forgets to move a mat under a fall zone.
We plan to offer a lot of easy routes and easy boulder problems so that new climbers feel that they can be successful at climbing right away. The gym has been designed so that at least half of the terrain is suitable for routes up to 5.9 and there is a lot of easy bouldering terrain. That said, the gym is large enough (12,000 square feet of floor space and over 14,000 square feet of climbing surface) that there will be plenty of hard climbing available.
The building is pretty cool. It’s an old airplane hangar with multiple ceiling heights (up to 36’) and windows all along the high clerestory. The windows bring in natural light from above and provide good views of the Toronto skyline from some of the taller climbs.
Other distinguishing features include the free-standing boulder, the huge top-out bouldering area, two cracks (36’ finger crack and 16’ hand crack), the chimney with a flake/tufa feature running up one edge, a sizeable area of slab wall and the stalactite suspended from the high ceiling at 36’ that stops 2 ½ feet above the padded floor. Oh, and we’re setting up a couple of slacklines as well!
We are also installing lead anchors on almost every section of roped wall (the only exception is the slab section), so we’ll have more leadable terrain than most gyms. We’ve already ordered 320 quickdraws.
We have invested in a seamless modular padding system from Asana for the advanced bouldering area. The entire fall zone in that area will have a foot of padding. And because we’re avoiding the use of drag mats, we think we can reduce injuries that result from falling on pad edges or when someone forgets to move a mat under a fall zone.
We plan to offer a lot of easy routes and easy boulder problems so that new climbers feel that they can be successful at climbing right away. The gym has been designed so that at least half of the terrain is suitable for routes up to 5.9 and there is a lot of easy bouldering terrain. That said, the gym is large enough (12,000 square feet of floor space and over 14,000 square feet of climbing surface) that there will be plenty of hard climbing available.
Does the space have air conditioning?
Absolutely!
Absolutely!
How do you see True North Climbing fitting into the Toronto indoor climbing scene?
Based on how busy the existing gyms are most of the time and how the sport is growing in other similar metropolitan areas, I think Toronto is big enough for more climbing gyms. I took a trip to the San Francisco Bay Area last June to check out their climbing scene and was very impressed by the eight gyms I visited. By locating in the north end of the city we are aiming to serve the northern half of the Toronto and the neighbouring areas. We are not trying to directly compete with the other gyms and our focus on providing routes and problems that beginners can succeed on is part of working to grow the climbing market. Bringing in a lot of new climbers can help all the gyms in the area.
I contacted the other local gyms when I started this project last spring and the other owners have been very friendly and supportive. I think we are moving towards better communication and co-operation among the gyms in the area. Last year’s Sweatfest series shared between Climber’s Rock and Boulderz is a great example of that, and I expect this year we’ll join in on that, along with at least one other gym.
Based on how busy the existing gyms are most of the time and how the sport is growing in other similar metropolitan areas, I think Toronto is big enough for more climbing gyms. I took a trip to the San Francisco Bay Area last June to check out their climbing scene and was very impressed by the eight gyms I visited. By locating in the north end of the city we are aiming to serve the northern half of the Toronto and the neighbouring areas. We are not trying to directly compete with the other gyms and our focus on providing routes and problems that beginners can succeed on is part of working to grow the climbing market. Bringing in a lot of new climbers can help all the gyms in the area.
I contacted the other local gyms when I started this project last spring and the other owners have been very friendly and supportive. I think we are moving towards better communication and co-operation among the gyms in the area. Last year’s Sweatfest series shared between Climber’s Rock and Boulderz is a great example of that, and I expect this year we’ll join in on that, along with at least one other gym.
Tell us about the facility.
Eldorado Climbing Walls is building the climbing terrain. I’ve been thrilled with both their design team and construction crew. They are a very professional and talented bunch of people and working with them has been a real pleasure.
The gym is divided into 3 main areas:
The north half, which has the large top out bouldering area, a section of roped walls (including the chimney), the freestanding boulder (8’ high, 8’ in diameter, and carved with easy features to make it a great rock for kids and beginners to play on) and the slacklines
The south-east quarter, with the lead cave, the finger crack wall and another top-rope wall with a couple of overhangs on it. This area leads to the main archway which takes you into...
The south-west quarter, in front of the reception desk, with another 30 feet or so of bouldering terrain, easier top-rope terrain, and the stalactite hanging in the middle.
The locker rooms are a good size with 102 lockers between them and each has a large private shower area that includes a bench and a place to get changed. And we’re putting in a water fountain. There is an additional barrier-free bathroom at ground level.
Eldorado Climbing Walls is building the climbing terrain. I’ve been thrilled with both their design team and construction crew. They are a very professional and talented bunch of people and working with them has been a real pleasure.
The gym is divided into 3 main areas:
The north half, which has the large top out bouldering area, a section of roped walls (including the chimney), the freestanding boulder (8’ high, 8’ in diameter, and carved with easy features to make it a great rock for kids and beginners to play on) and the slacklines
The south-east quarter, with the lead cave, the finger crack wall and another top-rope wall with a couple of overhangs on it. This area leads to the main archway which takes you into...
The south-west quarter, in front of the reception desk, with another 30 feet or so of bouldering terrain, easier top-rope terrain, and the stalactite hanging in the middle.
The locker rooms are a good size with 102 lockers between them and each has a large private shower area that includes a bench and a place to get changed. And we’re putting in a water fountain. There is an additional barrier-free bathroom at ground level.
Who do you have route setting?
Dustin Curtis (a member of the Canadian national team) is our Head Routesetter and Head Instructor. He’ll have the help of our Gym Manager, Clint Searle and a team of part-time routesetters that we’re currently recruiting.
Dustin Curtis (a member of the Canadian national team) is our Head Routesetter and Head Instructor. He’ll have the help of our Gym Manager, Clint Searle and a team of part-time routesetters that we’re currently recruiting.
Will the routes change regularly?
Absolutely. Dustin will have enough staff to keep the routes and problems turning over frequently on a regular schedule. We know that having a great facility isn’t going to keep bringing people back unless there are also great routes that don’t get too old. That’s why I’ve invested in a full-time head routesetter, and enough part-time people to keep up with the large amount of work involved in changing routes in a gym this large.
Absolutely. Dustin will have enough staff to keep the routes and problems turning over frequently on a regular schedule. We know that having a great facility isn’t going to keep bringing people back unless there are also great routes that don’t get too old. That’s why I’ve invested in a full-time head routesetter, and enough part-time people to keep up with the large amount of work involved in changing routes in a gym this large.
What’s the setting style?
I’ll let Dustin Curtis, our Head Routesetter and Head Instructor, answer this one:
"The route setting at True North will be a variety of styles with a focus on flow and consistency. My crew and I will be extremely focused on creative and exciting routes for all levels of climbing. Both the bouldering and the routes will be changed frequently, offering a continual “freshness” while still providing our members an opportunity to work their projects. We will also be offering youth-specific routes in our lead, top rope and bouldering areas. This is an incredible facility and I intend to have the setting style and quality reflect that."
I’ll let Dustin Curtis, our Head Routesetter and Head Instructor, answer this one:
"The route setting at True North will be a variety of styles with a focus on flow and consistency. My crew and I will be extremely focused on creative and exciting routes for all levels of climbing. Both the bouldering and the routes will be changed frequently, offering a continual “freshness” while still providing our members an opportunity to work their projects. We will also be offering youth-specific routes in our lead, top rope and bouldering areas. This is an incredible facility and I intend to have the setting style and quality reflect that."
What about the staff?
I’ve mentioned Dustin and Clint, who along with me form the full-time management of the gym. We are in the process of hiring enough part-time staff (routesetters, instructors, desk/floor staff and belayers) to run the gym effectively, and to provide great customer service. We’re still early in that process right now, but we’re seeing some great candidates, and I’m confident we’ll have a great team of friendly people who are passionate about climbing and want to share that excitement with our customers.
I’ve mentioned Dustin and Clint, who along with me form the full-time management of the gym. We are in the process of hiring enough part-time staff (routesetters, instructors, desk/floor staff and belayers) to run the gym effectively, and to provide great customer service. We’re still early in that process right now, but we’re seeing some great candidates, and I’m confident we’ll have a great team of friendly people who are passionate about climbing and want to share that excitement with our customers.
What are some of the non-climbing features of the gym? Any training options or shopping?
We’re setting up a training area in a neat part of the gym behind the section of wall with the full-height finger crack. We’re planning a campus board, hang boards and a system board, and the floor will be padded. Our retail offerings will start off very modestly: T shirts, water bottles and chalk balls. We can grow that as needed based on what our customers and members need.
We’re setting up a training area in a neat part of the gym behind the section of wall with the full-height finger crack. We’re planning a campus board, hang boards and a system board, and the floor will be padded. Our retail offerings will start off very modestly: T shirts, water bottles and chalk balls. We can grow that as needed based on what our customers and members need.
Location and opening date?
We’re located in the Downsview Park Sports Centre. Downsview Park is a huge urban national park being developed at what used to be Downsview Air Force Base, near Highway 401 and Allen Rd (a little east of Highway 400). It’s easily reached by car with plenty of free parking outside our door, and TTC’s bus 101 is a 10-minute ride from Downsview subway station.
The Downsview Park Sports Centre seems to be a bit of a secret still, but it is a fantastic community of sports businesses occupying the former hangar building. The other tenants include:
The Hangar: indoor & outdoor soccer fields, beach volleyball, ball hockey and a restaurant/bar
Hoopdome: basketball courts
The Toronto School of Circus Arts
GrandPrix Kartways: indoor go karting, and a restaurant/bar
The Rail: skateboard park
DefCon: outdoor paintball
Toronto Roller Derby League (we will be selling tickets to their bouts)
PEAC: a private school for elite athletes
National Squash Academy (coming later this year): 10 public squash courts
We’re located in the Downsview Park Sports Centre. Downsview Park is a huge urban national park being developed at what used to be Downsview Air Force Base, near Highway 401 and Allen Rd (a little east of Highway 400). It’s easily reached by car with plenty of free parking outside our door, and TTC’s bus 101 is a 10-minute ride from Downsview subway station.
The Downsview Park Sports Centre seems to be a bit of a secret still, but it is a fantastic community of sports businesses occupying the former hangar building. The other tenants include:
The Hangar: indoor & outdoor soccer fields, beach volleyball, ball hockey and a restaurant/bar
Hoopdome: basketball courts
The Toronto School of Circus Arts
GrandPrix Kartways: indoor go karting, and a restaurant/bar
The Rail: skateboard park
DefCon: outdoor paintball
Toronto Roller Derby League (we will be selling tickets to their bouts)
PEAC: a private school for elite athletes
National Squash Academy (coming later this year): 10 public squash courts
We are on track to open our doors in the second half of March. We expect to offer a short preview leading up to our big launch event on March 27th, which is our first Tour de Bloc competition. We also plan a Grand Opening party in mid-April, after the dust has settled. You can see more at True North Climbing.