Uniting Canada's Largest Climbing Community

Rockwood Climbing Situation Deteriorates

In an unprecedented move yesterday, the Grand River Conservation Authority (GRCA) employed outside contractors to remove all climbing routes from Rockwood Conservation Area.

  •  Rockwood Climbing Situation Deteriorates - Photo: Dennis Barnes

    Rockwood Climbing Situation Deteriorates - Photo: Dennis Barnes

For almost two decades, climbers and the Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) have attempted to negotiate a viable solution that would allow climbing in Rockwood. Unfortunately, GRCA has continually resisted any attempt to arrive at an amicable resolution even though they lacked the resources to effectively enforce a climbing ban.
 
The situation remained in a cat-and-mouse stalemate, with climbers continuing to visit the crag and the GRCA occasionally patrolling the cliff and ejecting climbers from the area. 
 
Rumours emerged in late May that the GRCA was planning on removing all routes in early June, and true to their word, outside contractors were hired to strip the crag of all hardware.
The team noted that contractors hired by the GRCA had stripped the hardware from seven routes and had used angle grinders to chop several glue-ins from one climb.
Ontario Climbing has now received news that last night a small group of individuals removed much of the existing hardware from the cliff in an effort to salvage and possibly repurpose the gear that’s valued at close to $2500. The team stripped approximately 16 routes and hauled out about 80 lbs of hardware. Two lines remain with no anchors, as the team did not have time to access them due to the traversing nature of the routes.  
 
The team noted that contractors hired by the GRCA had stripped the hardware from seven routes and had used angle grinders to chop several glue-ins from one climb. 
  •  A blurry cell phone image of the contractors hired to remove the climbs at Rockwood.

    A blurry cell phone image of the contractors hired to remove the climbs at Rockwood.

Rockwood was at the centre of controversy soon after its development as the GRCA quickly moved to ban climbing. Their decision confounded many climbers who pointed out that Conservation Halton, a neighbouring conservation authority, has maintained a productive and respectful relationship with the climbing community for many decades.
 
GRCA’s concerns regarding the area have included liability, land ownership and environmental impact. The climbing community and the OAC have repeatedly attempted to address these concerns, but the GRCA board has resisted any compromises. 
 
More details as they become available.
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Gus Alexandropoulos is a freelance writer who has been involved in the outdoor industry for over 35 years. During his career he has been the editor at Canada’s national climbing magazine, as well as the gear editor for a national cycling magazine, triathlon magazine and running magazine. His work has been published in Canada’s national newspaper, The Globe and Mail, and he has been a guest on television and radio broadcasts. His passion for climbing began in Ontario in the mid-80s and he continues to travel extensively in search of crisp conditions and steep rock.